As reported in a study in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, NYC dermatologist Bruce Katz, MD, created a new molecule by blending a high dose of retinol with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). He saw a 73% improvement in appearance and texture of the skin in severely sun-damaged patients. Sure, these two ingredients are already in hundreds of products, but they work synergistic magic when stuffed into a single molecule.
"The AHA absorbs moisture and hydrates skin, reducing the irritating effects of the retinoids, so we can use a way higher dose than in even prescription-strength formulas," says Katz, a clinical professor of dermatology at the Ichan School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and director of the Cosmetic Surgery and Laser Clinic at Mount Sinai Hospital. "Plus, AHAs improve skin's permeability, so more retinoids can get in."
Until the yet-to-be-named molecule hits the market (expected in the next year), you can pair up its powerhouse ingredients. Katz recommends this twice-daily regimen after cleansing:
1. AHA (glycolic or lactic acid) of 8 to 10%—Try Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Moisturizer
2. Retinoid—Get an Rx for tretinoin or add Paula's Choice Resist Retinol 1% Booster to your regular serum or moisturizer.
In the a.m., don't forget SPF 30 sunscreen with zinc, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone.